Cibo: the Gustatory Pleasures of the Dowlings

The unofficial restaurant guide to Rome (mostly in Trastevere!):

Da Albino il sardo all’angoletto – Retreat under the vine covered bower and don’t let the unsmiling waiter fool you, this place is all heart. The minute you order something out of the box – say paparadelle with cinghale sauce (pasta with wild boar) the merest edge of his mouth with twitch and you’ll know you are loved. The food ranges from very good to fabulously extraterrestrial. The bread for the table is carte de musica: warm, huge, round crispy crackers drizzled with a touch of olive oil. The boar with toasted cheese is an otherworldly experience. The shrimp and rocket antipasto is light and lemony. The house wine is ridiculously drinkable. Go here. Go back often. (Trastevere, Via de Luce)

Osteria del Sostegno – In this tucked away restaurant, they only have four burners in the back kitchen, so if you have a large family, you may be asked to limit your primi orders to four dishes. It’s worth it. The pasta is perfect with clean interpretations of classics. The décor is warm and inviting, and there are no real misses on the menu. The wait staff is kind (we witnessed a male waiter endure and deftly deflect repeated attempts at diversion from a clearly loopy, wandering elderly lady) and efficient, and each has a hand in finishing the dishes, so they take pride in the outcome. It shows, both in presentation and in gustatory excellence. Menu changes with the season. Recommended Pollo Cacciatore; Zuppa Verdura; Speck, Radicchio e Avocado, Spaghetti alla Carbonara, and Zucchini Flower Pasta. The tiramisu is so light it could float away. Make sure you take the time to seek out this eatery. (Pantheon, Vicolo Collonna)

Teatro di Pompeo – The all male wait staff is patient and unsmiling. They’re serious about your order, and the food is strictly Roman style. What makes it different is that each dish is resoundingly good. Nice portions, fantastic taste, and a REALLY great value. The waiters will always recommend what the chef that day likes to cook. If you’re undecided, go with it. Not just a fancy name, the Teatro IS actually built over an ancient buried theater, cave-like rooms of which can be seen on a trip to the toilette. On your way back to your table, stop by the open arch that features the kitchen. The chefs are bustling about the burners, turning out succulent veal dishes, clean soups, hearty pastas, and one of the best straccetti con rughetta I’ve had.
(Pza d. biscione, Campo dei Fiori)

Jaipur – Sunny and his crew serve up delicious Indian fare at this gem of a restaurant. Special touches like a touch of sparkling wine in flutes when you are seated and the plate of fennel seeds and small, licoricy candies as you leave are simply cherries in the sundae at this eatery where each dish is an exquisite composition of flavor. Begin with papadans and the three-sauce tray. Order a large range of small dishes (each is usually under 7euro) and make sure to swipe up all those delicious sauces with buttered naan. Chicken tikka masala, lamb curry, and any form of their spinach are highly recommended. The restaurant recently won 2nd place in an international cooking contest in Naples. English spoken. (Trastevere, Via de San Francesca a Ripa)

Vizi Capitale – This little tucked away restaurant is a refreshing break from carb and tipici (typical cooking) hell. Each dish is a creation of flavor and freshness. The ambience is suave (like the padrone) and the staff helpful. Try the multi-course tasting menu for the best experience. Meats are cooked perfectly, pastas are al dente and not heavy, and dessert (we had chocolate mousse and vanilla gelato) is never an afterthought. It can be perfectly affordable if you are a party of two and split the tasting menu with an added primi plate! Surprisingly beautiful plates and chargers highlight the sumptuous fare. One of the best restrooms in all of Rome (it had potpourri and PAPER!) A gem. (Trastevere, Vicolo della Renella)

Takè – A sushi oasis in the heart of Trastevere. The décor is sumptuous inside and the details are numerous. Recommended are the udon tempera and salmon-avocado rolls. Tiny purses of minced pork and water chestnuts offer a pleasing contrast in texture. Though the menu may seem limited to those of us in areas with vast menus, it is carefully refined. Don’t be surprised if, while dining, you see a man shoulder a huge fish right through the center of the restaurant, headed for the back kitchen. You KNOW it’s fresh! (Trastevere, Viale de Trastevere)

Da Giggetto – You’d think the waiters would be more endearing at this gastronomic institution, but if you don’t mind hunting down the dessert cart or reminding them multiple times for your water, you’re in for a treat. The food is wonderful. The fried artichokes (Jewish style) are a legend, and the fish is succulent. Veal is tender and flavorful. The pastas uniformly good, and the view out over the Portica d’Ottavia, is spectacular. (The Ghetto, via Portica d’ Ottavia)

Pizzeria del Moro – The whole staff works as a team, calling out orders and making table service quick and efficient. The menu is in three languages and the food is three star. They have fresh fish and lightening quick service, without feeling rushed. Pizzas are fast on arrival, large on the plate, and huge on taste. Risotto is tender and rich; the grilled prawns were the size of small lobsters; the fish case is iced and on view. The beer comes in one size: large and cold, and the waitress with green flashing eyes is all-seeing and intuitive. You won’t leave hungry or feeling ignored. (Tratstevere, Via del Moro)

Good Caffé –Luca, Carla and the rest of the staff do their best to make you feel a part of something special. Most of the staff speak some English and attract students from John Cabot University, but go for the drinks and the food. Unusual items such as apple cinnamon muffins, fresh tremezzino sandwiches, and homemade apple torte are winners. The eggplant Parmesan looks de-lish. The White Lady’s are highly recommended. Luca serves up a mean latte. Although the waiters will count up your bill without writing it down (which can be confusing and unnecessarily obfuscating), the wireless Internet connect is rare in Rome, and a draw for business types and scholastics alike. (Trastevere, Piazza Dorotea /S. G Malva)

Caffe Farnese – With its spectacular view onto the Piazza Farnese, this caffe is a lovely break from the crush of the Campo dei Fiori crowd. Smartly dressed waiters and waitresses (where else in affordable Rome do they wear bow ties at a caffe?) will take your order with relative promptness. The caffe latte was so rich and thick you could hear it sploosh as you stirred in a bit of sugar. The cornetti are scented with orange water. The selection of sweets and savories is vast. There are oranges glowing in a stainless steel basket by the juicer perched in the window. Need I say more? Go often. Linger long. (Piazza Farnese, near the Campo dei Fiori)

Vincenzo de Lungaretta – Cooking straight from Mama’s hand to your table. Literally. One day we had to wait what seemed an interminable time for our check, and on inspection, found her operating the till and then running back to finish a dish. The waiters are good humored and good looking, and the food is simple, tasty fare. The salsicce is loaded with flavor, and accompanied by a lemon wedge to brighten the tastes. The penne all’arribiata passed the spiciness test of our connoisseurs (tom and clare) and the side dishes are all homey fare. It faces one of Rome’s few fine art spots: Joe DeLuca’s photography gallery. Right across the street is a tiny fruit and vegetable stand complete with sleeping watch dog under the fruit crates. (Trastevere, Via Lungaretta/Near Via de Luce)

Insalata Ricca – Huge salads and ample plates of pasta are what this eatery is known for. The salads come in about 25 combinations and are easily splittable by two. Nearly 15 pastas are on offer, and you would be wise to check the buffet case for daily specials. The pizzas are light and crispy, with just the right amount of toppings. Wait service can be spotty, but is generally quick and passable. Five Locations in Rome, but not all have a piazza oven like Trastevere. Multilingual menu.
(Trastevere, Via de Santini)

To Fly (Quick Lunch) – A new restaurant with ultra-mod interior and unusual style: they have nearly 18 different dishes set out buffet style for a price fix lunch of 15 Euros. At 12:30 they roll out the four chafing dishes and present anything from lasagna to chicken legs to pork. Buffet dishes range from shrimp couscous to cold cuts to rice with peas and mint. One dish was a surprising medley of eggplant and cold cooked calamari steak, and another was warm flavored rice molded into a ring and served with sundried tomato sauce. Just for the sheer number of dishes to try and the varied menu, this restaurant is recommended. The fact that 98% of the food was excellent doesn’t hurt either.
(near Piazza Venezia/via Fornari)

Recommended with reserve:
Paella II – The sangria is special, the paella is a good break from pasta, and there is an egg and potato wedge of excellence that we never managed to find out its name. However, this restaurant is run by the parents of the gypsy boys that tried to pickpocket me in daylight on the Ponte Garibaldi. For that reason alone, beware. The boys often lurk in the back room. Keep your purse in your lap and enjoy the sangria!
(Trastevere, v. Gensola)

Le Archi di Trastevere – Service can be excruciatingly slow, but is genial. A family-run establishment, this restaurant serves HUGE portions and very tasty fare. Highly recommended are the pasta e ceci soup, the risotto al mare, the shrimp cocktail, and the pasta with lemon sauce (it works, don’t ask me why).
(Trastevere, v.d.arco san calisto)