Layers

Rome is a city of layers, literally, the medieval upon the classical, the renaissance on top of the medieval, the baroque on top of the renaissance, and the modern on top or next to all of that. Rome is many cities simultaneously. This goes for the inhabitants as well. Physically, the older generations that lived through WWII are shorter, tinier people. Their son’s and daughters are taller, more expressive in their conversations. When this generation is around you, you feel it. Whoever is speaking in a group flails their hands around, conducting the conversation. If another takes the conversation, that person becomes the conductor. If one of the conversants is passive, their hands are in their pockets, or their arms are folded. This is a signal as well, “I’m really not listening.” The youngest generation is the loudest, the freest in their demeanor and manner. The ebullient hand gestures, the walking arm in arm is a singularly Italian affectation. You might even put an historical style to these generational differences: the oldest are classical, stoic, measured; the middle aged are fashionable, renaissance, or theatrical and baroque; the youngest are modern, self conscious, concerned about their place.


The life of the people of Rome can be looked at this way as well. The shops are a good indication of what I mean. You find the more modern shops engaged with the world. Inviting the world in openly. The older, hole-in-the-wall stores are almost medieval and cave-like. You enter them as though you are approaching a philosopher or prophet. Inside, the “wise-man” or woman of cleaning products or vegetables will assist you. Of course most of the establishments are somewhere between these two extremes. Whatever the product, the context in which they sell it has an aesthetic, an historical connection. This aesthetic or style helps define who they are and which Rome they live in. --Ciao, Tommaso