Outer Rome

One of the best things that has happened to us here in Rome is our experience outside the city center. Living in Trastevere has given us a real sense of Roman life. In addition, we have purposefully traveled to the outlying sections or neighborhoods of Rome. Not the suburbs, but the perimeter neighborhoods where the real Romans live.

The Aventine is quite beautiful. It is an upper-class district with more parkland and greenery. It sits up on one of the seven hills that Rome was founded upon. The highest point overlooks the city from the Vatican to the Circus Maximus. The backside of the hill flows down to the east, filled with large homes and apartments with plenty of trees and parks. Almost entirely residential until you hit the flatlands. One has the sense it is the Beverly Hills of Rome, in the city but still apart from it.



Testaccio is a working class neighborhood, south of the Aventine. It is a neighborhood quite proud of its “romaness”. It is the heart of the Roman soccer team’s following. It is clean, plenty of parks and schools but not many churches or government buildings. The marketplace in the biggest piazza is a wonder. Lisa has commented on it accurately. Testaccio has lots of shops and restaurants. We agreed, you could live in this area very pleasantly.


The Esquiline , particularly the outer edges of this area are an inner city environment. Not a slum, but like much of downtown L.A., filled with warehouses, trains, trucks, and commerce. Within the neighborhood are working class people including a large Chinese population. Within this area there is a large park in the Vittorio Emmanuel Piazza. The surrounding 19th century buildings are not kept up, but the shops and people are stylish and seem to cherish their environs. It is close to the Termini , so many travelers come in and out of the area. The shops and hotels cater to this group, but there is still a sense of neighborhood.



It’s been great to get out of the tourist areas. They are the history and culture and the reason for our work here, but they are also congested and commercialized for the tourists trade. The “eternal city” is filled with stories of the past at almost every turn in the street.
This is also true in these outlying areas. Our extended stay here has allowed us to explore and wander and get a feel for the contemporary Rome as well.

I have often found myself attracted to certain cities and areas in my travels. I am drawn to those areas that blend human activity and culture. I like the mix of shops and home, of artisans and manufacturing in the same neighborhood. In Ireland, I love the city of Cork. It is industrial and residential with nature at its doorstep. Unlike Dublin, which is too city, too urban. In England, I loved living in Cambridge with its intellectual industry and again, nature at the doorstep. In Rome, I like the old Roman just outside the historical center where people live and breathe and yes, nature is not far from their doorstep.


Ciao, Tommaso